hey all been a while since i've been on here but im looking at getting back into a reeper. i have a lead on one that i made an offer on and the guy accepted and then he told me he hadn't started it in a while and noticed the oil pressure light sometimes would come on and then go off and sometimes would come on and stay on and sometimes wouldn't come on at all even with the key on and the engine not running? anybody had any issues like this or should i just back out on this thing??
How many miles does it have on it. It could be several things. The sending unit itself could be bad, possible loose connection, due for an oil change. We really have no history of the machine to go bye. Just for your statement that the light sometimes doesn't come on at all when you turn the key on leads me to believe that the engine itself is probably ok. I would definitely check it out really well in person. I would think if the oil pressure is low enough for the light to come on you should hear lifter clatter or something.
Honestly since you can't actually look at it yourself, I don't think anyone on here could with confidence tell you to go for it. The person was honest enough to tell you about it ahead of time when he could have went for the easy sale. That's gotta stand for something. Can you video chat with the person? Have him check the oil make sure it's clean. Start the machine so you can hear the motor and possibly see if it's puffing steam out of the exhaust. At least try to get as much history as you can. How it was used, if it ever ran hot. What ever you can get would help.
I have seen this happen with dirty or corroded connection. As TJ said hard to say for sure with no history. The fact that it is intermittent say it is most likely the connection or possible the sending unit. No connection light is on. Good connection light is off. If light is on on every start wait for the bang and that it wont roll over anymore. I haven't heard of sending units going bad often, but have heard about bad, dirty or loose connections. 1 wire for connection. But again, I don't know the history. Another problem that could spring up if it sat for long periods with no stabilizer is poor running from gummed injectors.
Good to see you back on here as well old friend.
Last Edit: Feb 14, 2019 20:25:44 GMT -5 by The Fool
well i hope it is nothing major because its on its way. after the oil light issue popped up we settled on a price i just couldn't turn down. at $2500 with 2 sets of wheels and tires i can afford to spend a little time and money on it. firs thing will be an oil pressure guage!! and at that price i won't feel guilty doing some mods. by the way beaver offroad will be getting some more of my business soon!
Last Edit: Feb 15, 2019 7:32:16 GMT -5 by firebird
update on oil pressure light. ok my reeper was delivered monday and sure enough the oil pressure light was acting as described. come on sometimes and stay on, not come on at all, or act normally. so today i got a mechanical oil gauge just to see what was going on the the oil pressure. my luck was with me this time (for a change) and it has great oil pressure! 25 psi at idle and 70 at 4000 rpm. so onward and upward!!! it needs a little tlc but now i know the engine is good i can make it how i want it.
well i'm gonna have to back up on my reeper. upon running the thing more and getting it up to operating temp it develops a knock. nice quite and smooth cold. knocks when hot and oil pressure drops. i am guessing a rod from the sound of it. anyone know a good source for parts? looks like a rebuild is at hand.
thanks water ingestion a possibility it has been in some mud and water but according to seller only been used for mild trail rides!! i think not. anyway looking at ordering a complete long block direct from china or a lower end rebuild kit thats on ebay!
Last Edit: Feb 25, 2019 8:26:23 GMT -5 by firebird
When I changed my engine out a few years back I bought a long block from a place in Pheonix, Arizona called Wind Talker they are a Joyner dealer, they take certain models and pull the 3 cyl. out and install the 4 cyl. in, this was a new engine and it is still going strong - at the time I think I payed @ 3200.00 I have not been disappointed you may give them a call
a quick update. it's not a rod after all. turns out to be no.1 main. put some heavier oil in it just as a stop gap and the knock is barely noticeable even warm. now just have to decide on a doing a lower end rebuild or spend a little more and go with a complete long block?? decisions decisions!! just not sure what caused the issue?
i have already torn into it. that's how i know the no 1 main is bad. crank is worn but the bearing looks ok?? just curious what could cause such failure. it's not a big deal to replace the crank but don't want put in a new crank and it do the same thing in 1000 miles. that's why i'm leaning toward a complete long block.
Hard to say without examining the parts and how they are worn. Any signs that water may have entered the crankcase? Does seem odd the crank worn but not the bearing. How is the crank worn? Doesn't sound as though it spun any material. Would be interested to see a picture or three of the damage.
anything could be possible with this machine. it appears it wasn't treated that well. i talked to john deere dealer today and can get a new crank, bearings, seals, and gaskets for around $400 and they said should take about 3 days to get them. only thing i'm not sure is the end of the crank where the trans attaches. may give it a shot. beats waiting a month for something from china if it works.